Verify that the float is empty and that you feel confident on the bb. If there are signs of corrosion, with everything else- I would replace the carb. I assume that you have a Tecumseh dealer near by. If not, I will list a parts look up link and you can let Google do the rest. Tec look up online uses the spec after the model. Good luck. Here is a link that might be useful: Tec parts.
I got the carb all put back together and re-installed. The blower started right up and i made some minor adjustments to the carb. Then i shut the blower off and attempted to re-start it. It doesn't seem like the engine will turn over. I hit the electric start and it obviously didn't sound right I looked at the tecumseh manual posted above and couldn't find any troubleshooting that pertained.
I bought the unit used and it did not come with an owners manual I hate that! No history can bite sometimes. Oil in engine? Auger not engaged somehow? Remove the spark plug- cranks now?
Beyond that, one has to pull either the pto cover or engine blower housing and check for something physically keeping the engine from turning. Maybe e starter binding? That way you can verify if it is something internal or not. At the edge of our seats Yes oil in the engine. I was planning on changing once we get some decent weather.
I have been working on it in the dark with a headlamp as i don't have a garage. I removed the spark plug and still no crank. I'm afraid to hit the electric start as it makes an obviously bad noise. The starter rope still only comes out 3 or so inches.
How do i check if the e starter is binding? I didn't see anything in the pdf regarding the e starter. What do you mean "auger not engaged somehow? The lever for the auger is up the auger should be off.
To check for the e starter binding, I would pull the engine blower housing first. That is the housing to which the pull starter is mounted. That way you can tell if the starter gear is still engaged in the flywheel ring gear. If so, the slightest amount of lube carefully placed on the shaft is all you want. You may have to loosen the starter. In fact, if you felt it easier, you could pull the e starter instead of the recoil blower housing.
Generally, it is easier to remove the fuel tank first and then the starter if need be. If all checks out there, then you will need to confirm that nothing is holding it on the PTO side of the engine. This evening i worked on fixing the starting problem. First i tarped the snowblower and set up a lantern under the tarp. I was hoping that some water had frozen somewhere and that was preventing the pull cord from moving.
No such luck. I then started looking at the housing seeing how i would take it off this weekend getting sick of working at night with a headlamp. Taped on the starter motor thinking that could free something up. Looked at how the starter motor is removed No bolts? I grabbed the starter motor and jiggled it Now i just have to look in the parts manual and figure out what size bolts hold the starter on.
Anyhow i'm relieved. I was worried that it was something major. On a different note. Tom - you mentioned that the "bb" could be a plug on the side of the stem of the carb. On page 18 of the PDF manual it shows a "ball plug" in figure 33 on the side of the stem The bb i found in the bowl fits pretty good in a hole that is in the same spot on the stem of my carb.
Any ideas what the hole does and why it is plugged. Is the bb supposed to fit in the whole way? I slipped the bb in the hole and it went in about half way, but seems stuck pretty good.
I can get it out but have to dig an pinch at it with needle nose piers i. Any ideas what could happen since this ball plug obviously came out? Will I need a new carb eventually as the ball is not included in a rebuild kit?
I would carefully peen the end of the bore to retain the bb. When manufactured, a passage was bored up through the stem. Glad you brought it up as I wasn't sure where else it would come from!
I would pull the starter and inspect the bolt holes for damage. Wobbled out holes are a bear. Hopefully no one installed a bolt that was too long that pushed the threads out or wrong thread.
Sometimes the best you can do is clean the threads and JB 'em if they are damaged. Or maybe a metric bottoming tap and a next size up.
Here's hoping the threads are as good as new! Glad to have helped. Awesome site!!! Thank you to everybody that posted in this thread I wouldn't have been able to fix my snowblower without your help!!!
I just discovered this forum after googling HMSK I've had my snow blower for about 15 years and it has served me well. It was professionally serviced 4 years ago and is now acting up again. To keep it somewhat short here is where I stand: I bought some carb spray and sprayed out the carb.
Also got a manual on line and adjusted the main jet, idle jet and throttle screw back to factory settings. Bought a rebuild kit and thus far replaced the o ring around the float and the main jet.
Fired it up and it ran fine for approximately 10 minutes then died. Did this 2 more times. I would prime it and it would start right up. I was able to adjust minimally the jets and the throttle screw and surging was minimal. I noticed it would sometimes slow down a bit, but pick right back up again. My neighbor came over and we removed the carb and he is soaking it in cleaner and will finish with all the rebuild parts.
I wonder it if is more than this. Why would it run fine for 10 minutes then die? Does the engine use a fuel filter that could be dirty. Gas is new and dosed with Seafoam. Any thoughts or help are appreciated. There is only a screen in the tank for a filter. Check your fuel cap and confirm it vents. Heck, whilst you have the carb off, run the line into a clean container for a spell.
You will verify flow and double check for debris at the same time. Be sure the carb is in the upright position before installing the jet on the side. I have an HM80 that runs but surges badly. When I took out the float bowl nut the two holes at the bottom looked fine but the tiny hole between the threaded areas appears not to go all the way through the side of the nut.
Is it supposed to go all the way through straight across or does it take a turn? What can I use to free up the hole? I tried using a small needle but had no luck. This engine appears to be practically unused and probably dates back to the late s. The hole will just go into the center- not straight out the other side.
A bread tie may help. Spray carb cleaner will help remove other varnish deposits. That and new fuel is a place to start. I have questions about the Welch plugs. What is behind these plugs and is something that can remover for hidden adjustments. My carb has two plugs one outside near the throttle and one inside near the main jet port. Does any one have any ideas why these are plugged.
I have not remover them yet but was curious as to the purpose of these There is a small mixing chamber behind the small one on the side. Sometimes removing this one will help get you where you need to go.
Above the plug inside the bowl, inside there is a small metal tab on which is inscribed who really shot JFK.. Really just a chamber above the plug. No hidden adjustments. Here is a link that might be useful: This may tell you more.
Got a good laugh at that one. I needed that. I just couldn't see a carb with out any adjustments. My carb has had a slight high idle surge along with a bit of a back fire or miss on the exhaust side. No vacuum leaks any where and setting the idle speeds does not help any either.
No miss fire on the ignition side since I have an in-line spark tester, it shows good continues spark. The gas tank was cleaned out and fuel line flushed out.
New regular gas was put in and still have this miserable idle surge. This is why was asking about the Welch plugs. I will post on update after I pull the plug and fiddle with that a bit.
Thanks again for your quick response. The welch plugs are to block the holes they drill in the carb body;there's no other way they can connect the passages,without drilling holes ,and once the passages are connected,they have to seal them,so only the fuel metered by the jets will go to the passages I never had to remove the welch plugs to clean the passages,but then again,I use compressed air with carb cleaner to clean,and so far it has never failed! You may also want to try adding some Seafoam or you favorite fuel system cleaner to the tank.
It isn't always successful with this however. Lots of jet spray through the passages down into the carb body while its running may help as well.
It has the HSMK80 engine. I bought a new carb, spark plug, fuel filter. I had it running great again thanks to the tips on this site I spray starting fluid in the carb and it runs great for about 3 seconds and dies again Has gas, fuel line is clear, primer works I am stumped Good fuel isn't getting through the main jet. If the tank and lines weren't cleaned, and fuel isn't new then make it so. If it won't run on the prime, just the starting fluid- that would indicate that the fuel itself is questionable.
Wow this 4 year old thread is full of good info. This machine has always run rough with slight surging and popping. They are made to run good under load and idle like a Harley. There are no adjustments on the carburetor except idle and the governor. Tecumseh Part Control Bracket Incl. Tecumseh Part Compression Spring. Tecumseh Part Terminal. Tecumseh Part Throttle Link. Tecumseh Part Control Knob. Tecumseh Part Choke Rod.
Tecumseh Part Muffler. Tecumseh Part Locking Plate. Tecumseh Part Starter Bubble Cover. Tecumseh Part B Starter Cup. Tecumseh Part Fuel Line 8. Tecumseh Part Fuel Line. Tecumseh Part Fuel Line Clamp.
Tecumseh Part Fuel Cap Red. Tecumseh Part Oil Fill Tube. Tecumseh Part "O" Ring. Tecumseh Part Fill Tube Clip. Tecumseh Part Dipstick.
Tecumseh Part Wire Clip. Tecumseh Part A Carburetor Cover. Tecumseh Part Fuel Tank Bracket. Tecumseh Part Primer Ass'y.
Tecumseh Part C Primer Line. Tecumseh Part Carburetor Cover Bracket. Tecumseh Part Warning Decal. Tecumseh Part Tecumseh Part Carburetor Incl. Tecumseh Part Winter Maintenance Kit incl.
The Right Parts,. The engine is started via an easy pull recoil starter and electronic CDI ignition system. The engine cylinder sleeve is cast iron and the muffler is aluminium.
The Tecumseh HM80 engine is used for snow blower, snow thrower, lawn mower and generator applications. While operating HM 80 engine it is advised that high quality and clean detergent should be used.
0コメント